Our first stop off the Metro was the Jardin des Plantes. We were slightly delayed by a procession of bike tourists, on "Mairie de Paris" bikes and accompanied by official-looking escorts. There were probably a couple hundred bikes - the second-largest procession we saw today! (Now ya gotta keep reading!)
The majestic allees of ancient trees (including one we did not find that dates to around 1650) are surrounded by beautiful buildings housing museums of anthropology, natural history, botany, and related natural disciplines. The boys rode a carousel featuring endangered and exotic animals, the Dodo Manege. Carter spotted a massive cedar tree given in 1734 by Dr. Collinson (maybe a relative of yours, Z-Man?). The park also houses the world's oldest zoo, the Menagerie, moved here from Versailles in 1792. We didn't make it in - the boys' target here was the Labyrinthe, created in the mid-1700s. Well, it turns out the Labyrinthe wasn't much of a maze, but a spiral ascending a hill to a pretty cupola. The hedges between arms of the spiral had been cut through by, well, short-cutters, and the kids did think those were spooky-ish. Calvin in particular had a great time. After the Labyrinthe, we headed to the river end of the park - oh, we did use the automatic public toilets, which as of less than two months ago are free rather than 40c.
It was nearly noon by now and we were feeling a bit peckish (ahem, that's not pretentious, it's Pythonesque), so we wandered across to the banks of the Seine to an outdoor public park full of sculpture supposedly climbable. Well, they looked climbable, except for the little signs telling you not to. Hmph. We sat by the river, had a snack lunch, and watched the boats and people go by. We had read about a cool spice shop in the Marais, the historic Jewish district in the old part of Paris, so we wandered that way to take full advantage of the now-gorgeous day. We crossed over the Seine at the Ile Ste-Louis. Our friend Wally thinks we should buy a pied-a-terre there, so look for the photos of the realtor and a street scene with a for-sale sign!
In the Marais, we failed to find the spice shop but saw a beautifully blooming cherry tree that reminded us of this season is Washington. Turning down its side street we came to a charming square with the back of an obviously ancient church with cool gargoyle downspouts. It is St Gervais, which is home to the Fraternites Monastiques de Jerusalem - mission "to live in the heart of the city, in the heart of God." Unlike many Brothers and Sisters, they live in cities, rent housing, earn wages, and do this all amongst others instead of within walls. Oh, and it's a very striking church inside and out, built from the 1400s to the 1600s. The French-only brochure tells us it was blasted by a "Big Bertha" shell in 1918, with hundreds killed during a service.
We sat for a spell in the square outside the church, next to the Mairie for the 4th Arrondissement. We shot off rocket balloons for a while, and while we were sitting and enjoying, the boys pointed out a few rollerbladers streaming by on rue de Rivoli. A few? By the time the river had stopped, there must have been THOUSANDS of them going by! Complete with police escort, broom-wagon ambulances, and a few trailing bikes. Quite a display!
From the square, we walked back around to a history museum that we'd spied from the street, with "Eau de Paris" water carafes in the window that we thought would make good gifts - for us at least. The museum was open and welcoming, with stunning maps and documents, but most impressively, the unrestored original basement dating to around 1250. It was built by an Abbey a hundred miles north of Paris to house their goods for sale in town and to give the Abbot a place to stay. Very cool place, and the docent told us about other tours they offer, so we'll be back there. (Turns out the carafes aren't as cool as we thought, so don't hold your breath for this present.) He also told us that the spice shop was a couple doors down, but closed - which is why we'd missed it. Maybe next week. Across the street were two of the few surviving medieval houses - you can tell by the half-timbering. And next to the spice shop, a maternelle (preschool) with a sign that left us breathless and near tears. Even without French you'll understand.
Although it was high time to head back, our meander to rehydrate and find the Metro took us by the Pompidou, where I had walked a while back on a shopping trip. The boys enjoyed the fountain and we stopped to watch a busker doing his magic show. Two kid volunteers were stuffed in a box, and the boys watched transfixed as the magician stuck six wooden poles through the small box. As the kids emerged, remarkably unscathed, Calvin was heard to exclaim "the first kid's still alive!" Ah, magic.
By now it was after 5 o'clock, so we did head home via Metro. The Chatelet station has a classic art nouveau entrance, and while Calvin and I stared at it, Betsy and Carter bought a picture of Notre Dame. It's amazing how they recognize the sights already. Calvin was telling stories the other night and said "what's that building" and started air-sketching the two towers - Carter guessed it for him and he was so pleased! I don't think he's forgotten the name sense, and recognized Notre Dame from the rear on our journey today.
Well, when we got home the flower buds on the tree outside our window had emerged a bit more. Betsy made dinner while the boys called friends and family, and now they're down and I've spent two hours writing about our day. Good night, all. Love, c&b&c&c
Posts
1 comment:
The best posting yet in my book. Oh I wish I could have been along. I laughed and smiled and read every word.
Keep up the blog and the fun.
Where are you going for Spring vacation? Does Betsy get days off just like everyone who has been there a long time.
Hugs and Kisses
Post a Comment