Last Day in Tokyo

I was on a waiting list for the Saturday flight back from Tokyo to Paris, but they didn't clear the waiting list, so I had a free day in Tokyo today since my second workshop ended yesterday (and went well, but was exhausting). Believe it or not, I actually dragged myself out of bed at 6 this morning to head over to the Tsujiki fish market. This is the main wholesale fishmarket, where they sell some of the prime tuna in the world, plus tons of other seafood too. Apparently you can actually see the crazy fish auction -- they aren't supposed to allow spectators, but as long you keep out of the way, no-one will bother you. Keeping out of the way isn't so easy, though. The scene outside the fish market is insane enough. There are several shopping arcades along the way, three or four main wholesale buildings, and a bunch of parking lots, with hundreds of trucks, cars, bikes, and forklifts zipping around -- and seriously zipping. The sign out front with the map of the market has a warning, whose English translation (theirs, not mine) says, "Be careful not to be injured all the time please."

I had hopes of seeing the auction, but in the end the parking lots were just too much to get past -- I really can't convey the pace. Plus, I wasn't totally sure where I was going, and I also got sidetracked by the shopping arcade. It has a mix of food stalls selling everything from restaurant supplies (bulk chopsticks, huge knives, 1000 paper placements, fancy aprons) to food (a million different kinds of Japanese pickes, kelp, exotic fresh product) and random stuff like sandals and china plates. Here's a couple pictures to give you an idea (note the entire display of salmon roe. Carter and Calvin would LOVE this, it's their favorite!)


Tucked in between the tiny shops are tiny restaurants selling breakfast for workers and tourists. There are places selling noodles and rice balls, but mainly a bunch of sushi and sashimi places -- conveniently located to the source. The restaurants are incredibly tiny, literally one counter that seats maybe 8 people. At the good (or cheap) ones, there is a long line outside the door of people waiting to get in, but the Japanese don't really linger over breakfast, so it moves pretty quickly. I took the plunge and had sashami for breakfast -- tuna, toro (they translate it sometimes as "fatty tuna," but that doesn't really capture it -- this is really the most tender and best tuna you can normally find), and uni (sea urchin). Here's a picture of the "menu" at the place I ate. It was great sashimi, even the uni, which I've only just got up the nerve to try again after being totally grossed out by it for years. I had a few minutes waiting in line to work up my courage, and in the end it wasn't quite as weird as I expected to have raw fish for breakfast... although now that I put it in writing, it sounds pretty gross. It helped that I'd already been awake for three hours and that tons of other people were doing the same thing.

Afterwards, I visited a couple lovely Japanese gardens. The first (Hama-Rikyu Gardens) was originally laid out in the 1600's and was used by various shoguns. The second (Kyu-Shiba-Rikyu Gardens) was laid out around the same time and was originally the site of the residence for a shogunate official of some kind. Both were severaly damaged in the 20th century -- by WWII and by earthquake and fire, respectively -- but have been restored very nicely. They run right next to freeways and train lines, but it's really amazingly peaceful inside the gardens, and it's an incredible contrast to see the traditional plantings and craggly trees with super-modern skyscrapers in the background.



I grabbed a late lunch, and then took a long nap. Now my plan is to pack my bags and get to bed at a decent hour, since I have to be up to catch a 6:30 shuttle to the airport. I love and miss you all.